Cappadocia Up Close
- Philip Ioan Zaharie
- Apr 15, 2023
- 6 min read
Updated: Jun 3
• Cappadocia (April 10 - 13, 2023)
• Istanbul (April 13, 2023)
9th April 2023 - Timisoara - Bucharest
Departing from Timișoara. We boarded TAROM flight RO608, eager to make new memories. As the sun was casting its long shadows, our plane touched down in Bucharest at 8 pm. Often referred to as the "Paris of the East", Bucharest is a fascinating blend of old and new. Historical buildings stand side by side with modern skyscrapers, giving this capital city an eclectic vibe.
10th April 2023 - En route to the Whimsical Terrains of Cappadocia
The morning greeted us with anticipation, as we boarded flight TK1044 from Bucharest to Istanbul. Istanbul, the city that straddles two continents, acted as a brief interlude in our journey. Before long, we were up in the air again, this time on flight TK2012, en route to Kayseri.
Upon landing, the landscape's transformation was evident. We swapped the urban hustle of Bucharest and Istanbul for the intriguing terrains of Kayseri. A private van awaited us, ready to whisk us away to Nevșehir. As we made the 1-hour journey, every twist and turn revealed the unique geology and history of the region.
At 3:30 pm, Nevșehir, the heart of Cappadocia, welcomed us. This region, known for its distinctive “fairy chimneys” and ancient underground cities, has an enchanting history stretching back millennia. Carved by natural elements and humans, Cappadocia feels like stepping into a dreamy storybook.
But the true adventure awaited us at 4 pm. Straddling our horses, we began our sunset trek. The journey commenced in Çavuşin, an old Greek village known for its rock-cut churches. As our horses trotted along, the scene transformed, revealing the captivating landscapes of the Rose Valley and Red Valley. The unique rock formations, shaped by time, wind, and water, stood tall against the setting sun, their silhouettes painting an unforgettable picture.
After such an exhilarating ride, rest was calling. The Ramada by Wyndham Nevșehir was the perfect end to a day packed with travel and adventure.
11th April 2023 - Floating Above and Roaming Below: Cappadocia's Majestic Wonders
If there's a universally accepted truth about Cappadocia, it's that the region is best appreciated from two perspectives: soaring high above and wandering on foot below.
The day began early, well before the sun made its debut. A 4 am pickup heralded the beginning of what would be an unforgettable hot air balloon ride. As our balloon inflated, the horizons started to light up, hinting at the first rays of sunlight. Soon, we were floating effortlessly above Cappadocia's iconic landscape. The sunrise painted the sky in shades of grey, orange, pink, and gold, illuminating the land below and casting shadows over the distinctive fairy chimneys and caves. This one-hour flight felt both timeless and fleeting, giving us a bird's eye view of a world molded by nature and history.
Descending from our aerial adventure, we ventured to the Pigeonniers troglodytes. These ancient cave dwellings, once home to countless pigeons, played a significant role in the agricultural life of the region. The pigeon droppings were historically used as a rich fertilizer for Cappadocian vineyards.
Our journey continued to Pancarlık Church, a lesser-known gem that offers insights into the region's religious history.
From the church, we made our way to Ortahisar Panorama. This vantage point, overlooking the town of Ortahisar and its rock fortress, offers a sweeping view of Cappadocia's distinctive topography. The ancient rock castle stands proudly, bearing witness to the region's storied past.
Our explorations led us next to the Sword Valley and Love Valley (Aşk Vadisi). Both valleys, with their peculiar rock formations and trails, are fascinating footnotes in Cappadocia's geological storybook. While the Sword Valley is named for its tall, pointed rocks resembling swords, Love Valley has its own set of unique and often humorously-interpreted formations.
As if the day hadn't been thrilling enough, an ATV tour through Sword Valley awaited. As we sped through the trails, the skies, perhaps sensing our adrenaline, decided to join in and unleashed a sudden shower. The rain, while unexpected, added a layer of adventure, making the ATV ride even more memorable.
Hungry and exhilarated, we found solace in the town of Göreme. Known for its rock formations and historical significance, it's also home to an array of restaurants offering delectable Turkish cuisine. After a day of exploration, there's nothing quite like a hearty meal to satiate both body and soul.
Retiring for the night, we returned to the hotel. As we settled in, recounting the day's adventures, one thing was clear: Cappadocia, with its history, landscapes, and adventures, has a way of imprinting itself on the heart of every traveler.
12th April 2023 - Unearthing Secrets and Standing Amidst Legends: A Deep Dive into Cappadocia's Layers
While Cappadocia's surface offers a visual feast, the true intrigue lies in peeling back its layers. Our fourth day in this land of wonders was dedicated to exploring both the depths and heights of its historical and natural marvels.
The day commenced at the Kaymaklı Underground City (Kaymaklı Yer Altı Şehri). An incredible architectural feat, this subterranean city once provided refuge to locals during times of invasions and conflicts. Winding tunnels, narrow passages, and intricately carved rooms extend several levels deep into the earth. The resourcefulness of its early inhabitants is evident in the city's sophisticated ventilation system and the presence of churches, stables, and communal rooms. As we meandered through its depths, we were reminded of the resilience and ingenuity of ancient civilizations.
Emerging from the underground, the Evil Eye Tree in Uçhisar awaited. This peculiar tree, adorned with countless blue 'evil eye' amulets, stands as a testament to local folklore and the protective power these symbols hold in Turkish culture. Each amulet, catching the light at varying angles, created a shimmering spectacle against the backdrop of the natural landscape.
Next, the Göreme Panorama beckoned. This viewpoint provides a sweeping overview of Göreme and the surrounding valleys. Against the vast sky, the town and its unique rock formations created a striking visual narrative, one that speaks of eons of geological evolution.
A short distance away, the Göreme Open Air Museum (Göreme Açık Hava Müzesi) unveiled the spiritual side of Cappadocia. This UNESCO World Heritage site is a complex of rock-carved churches, chapels, and monastic cells, many adorned with frescoes that date back to the 9th century. The artistry and devotion evident in these frescoes transported us back to an era where faith and art intertwined seamlessly.
As the afternoon sun cast elongated shadows, our journey led us to the Devrent Valley. Unlike other parts of Cappadocia, this valley is famed not for its historical significance, but for its fascinating lunar-like landscape and unique rock formations. Each formation seemed to hint at a shape, with some resembling animals and others, mythical creatures, leaving much to one's imagination.
As evening approached, the town of Uçhisar, with its welcoming lights and inviting aromas, was the perfect spot for dinner. Traditional Turkish dishes, rich in flavor and heritage, provided a fitting end to a day of deep exploration.
Returning to the hotel, the night was spent in reflection. Each corner of Cappadocia, from its depths to its heights, offers a story, a mystery, and a testament to the enduring spirit of nature and humanity.
13th April 2023 - From Cappadocia back to Timisoara with a layover in Istanbul's Historic Wonders
Traversing the length and breadth of a country as diverse as Turkey, within a single day, is no ordinary feat. Our fifth day was marked by transitions, not just geographically but also temporally, as we found ourselves wandering through epochs of history.
The day began early with a 6 am transfer from our hotel in Nevșehir to Kayseri airport. The first light of the morning painted the landscapes of Cappadocia in soft hues, prompting a quiet reflection on the previous days' adventures.
Our morning took flight with Turkish Airlines flight TK2011, transporting us from Kayseri to the historical heart of Turkey, Istanbul. The city, a bridge between Europe and Asia, has always been a melting pot of cultures, religions, and epochs.
Our layover in Istanbul was not merely a break between flights but an opportunity to step back in time. First on our itinerary was Hagia Sophia, an architectural marvel that stands as a testament to Istanbul's layered history. Originally a cathedral, then a mosque, Hagia Sophia whispers tales of Byzantine emperors and Ottoman sultans. Its domed ceiling, intricate mosaics, and grandiose scale speak of a time when empires vied for dominance and art was a medium of expression and devotion.
A stone's throw away, the Topkapı Palace awaited. Once the imperial residence of Ottoman sultans, this sprawling palace complex offers glimpses into the opulent lives of rulers from the past. From the lavish courtyards to the treasury holding some of the world's most precious gems, every corner of Topkapı radiates grandeur and intrigue.
Our historical sojourn was complemented with a visit to Sarayburnu Parkı. Positioned at the tip of Istanbul's historic peninsula, this park provides a tranquil respite. Overlooking the Bosphorus, the park's benches and pathways were the perfect spots for contemplating the city's skyline, where minarets pierce the sky, and the waters below play host to a dance of ferries and ships.
But as the day wore on, our journey beckoned us forward. Flight TK2045 transported us from Istanbul's rich history to Bucharest and our journey concluded with TAROM flight RO609, taking us back to where it all began, Timișoara.
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